The white-tablecloth temple is not dead, but Paris has fallen back in love with the small room: twenty covers, an open kitchen, a menu that changes when the market does. The wine is natural, the bread is extraordinary, and nobody is performing.
It is the same instinct driving Tirana's new table: trust the ingredient, lose the theatre. Pair dinner with a night at a Riviera grand hotel and you have the whole arc of how Europe eats now.
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